Buenos Aires

Buenos Aires - Cultural diversity and the Paris of South America

Located on the western side of the estuary of the Rio de la Plata, Buenos Aires, Argentina’s capital city has a population of 13 million people.It is known for its European style architecture, rich cultural life, cafe society and nightlife, a city  with a friendly multicultural European-feel and the highest concentration of theatres in the world.

"Buenos Aires may have seen its best days, but survives to offer a rich urban experience" Lonely Planet - South America. 

City Centre

In the 1930’s many parts of the overcrowded and heavily populated areas near the city were cleared and modernised - wide major avenues where built replacing narrow colonial streets. These now form the city’s wide streetscape.

Avenida 9 de Julio  - The "widest avenue in the world" in what remains of colonial Buenos Aires and named after the date of independence (July 9, Argentina’s national day of independence).

An obelisk, inaugurated in 1936, marks the intersection of Avenida 9 de Julio and Avenida Corrientes (four blocks from Plaza de Mayo)

The pyramid on Avenida 9 de Julio

Eva Peron's image on a building on Ave 9 July.

Plaza de Mayo: This is the main square of the city.

On 25th May 1810 the revolution at this site led to Argentina's independence. It has been the hub of political demonstrations (and riots) over the years.

The May pyramid commemorating independence built 1811

Monument of the general Manual Belgrano, one of the greatest heroes of Argentine History - a bronze equestrian statue on a large granite pedestal, showing Belgrano holding aloft the flag of Argentina

The plaza, since 1977, is where the Mothers of Plaza de Mayo have congregated with signs and pictures of desaparecidos, their children, who were subject to forced disappearance by the Argentine military in the Dirty War , during the national Reorganisation Process. People perceived to be supportive of subversive activities (that would include expressing left-wing ideas, or having any link with these people, however tenuous) would be illegally detained, subject to abuse and torture, and finally murdered in secret. The Mothers of the Plaza de Mayo took advantage of the symbolic importance of the Plaza to open the public's eyes to what the military regime was doing.

Another street demonstration against wages and conditions. 

Casa Rosada. The eclectic Casa de Gobierno, better known as the Casa Rosada or Pink House, is at Plaza de Mayo's eastern end, with its back to the river. 

The balcony facing Plaza de Mayo is a presidential podium. 

From this lofty stage Evita (Eva Peron)and Juan Peron rallied the descamisados (the shirtless—meaning the working class), Maradona sang along with soccer fans after winning one World Cup and coming second in another, and Madonna sang her filmed rendition of "Don't Cry for Me Argentina." A small banner hoisted alongside the nation's flag indicates that "the president is in."

The building houses the government's executive branch—the president works here but lives elsewhere. It was built in the late 19th century over the foundations of an earlier customhouse and fortress. Swedish, Italian, and French architects have since modified the structure, which accounts for the odd mix of styles.
Its curious hue dates from the presidency of Domingo Sarmiento, who ordered it painted pink as a symbol of unification between two warring political factions, the federales (whose color was red) and the unitarios (represented by white). Local legend has it that the original paint was made by mixing whitewash with bull's blood.

At night it takes on an purple hue

Metropolitan Cathedral The main catholic church originally rebuilt several times and final completion 1863. It has a mix of architectural styles.

Corinthian capitals on columns of portico

Interior has an 18th century nave & dome together with Neo-Renaissance and Neo-Baroque decoration

The right aisle of the church houses the mausoleum of General Jose de San Martin whose remains were brought from France and guarded by two soldiers. The black sarcophagus is guarded by three life-sized figures that represent Argentina, Chile and Peru - three regions freed by the General.


Cafe Tortoni is located at 825 Avenida de Mayo and has been established for over 150 years and has been visited by many famous people.

The cafe is regarded as one of the most beautiful cafes in the world and served as an important venue promoting literature and the arts.
Currently the basement works as stage for jazz and tango artists, and for the presentation of book and poetry contests. The café has conserved the decoration of its early years, has a library and at the back facilities to play billiards, dominoes and dice.

City Surrounds: Buenos Aires is a city of a ‘North of the city’ and ‘South of the city’ history.

South and riverside
During the 19^th century, the city attracted migrants from Argentina’s provinces, other South American countries and Europe –especially Italy and Spain.  They worked in the factories, dockyards and railways and families crowded into substandard housing and shanty towns - mostly located in the southern part of the city and near the docks and riverside.

La Boca had many of its early settlers from Genoa, Italy but is now mixed Italian, Spanish, German, French Arab and Basque. It retains a strong European flavour. It has colourful houses and pedestrian streets.

Sporting Fans know the area for La Bombonera, the home of the Boca Juniors which is one of the world's best known soccer clubs.

The riverside, Puerto Madero has gone through a revitalisation since the main port was moved over 50 years ago. Since 1980 this previously neglected area has been rebuilt with modern offices, apartments and condominiums, hotels, theatres, cinemas, cultural centres and shopping. In 1999 the Buenos Aires Hilton was opened in this district.

With so much immigration from 1880 to 1930, it also became a large multicultural city with cinema, theatre, radio and home to one of the world leading Opera Houses, Teatro Colon.  

Teatro Colon: This world class facility for opera and ballet and classical music opened in 1908. It seats 2500 in a seven story building. The rich interiors reflect opulence and granduer. The acoustics are world class -which was experienced by leading singers and musicians during the second world war when many European Opera houses were closed.

Tours are conducted daily  - the sculpture is called the whisperer

The northern parts of Buenos Aires has wealthy family homes, museums, gardens and cultural attractions and the palatial Recoleta cemetery with graves and impressive crypts of famous historical and influential figures and family mausoleums.

This is the crypt of Eva Peron.

Tango. Buenos Aires was the birthplace of thr Tango. Its sensual dance moves were not seen as respectable until adopted by the Parisian high society in the 1920s, and then all over the world. In Buenos Aires, tango-dancing schools (known as academias) were usually men-only establishments.
There are many displays and dinner shows in the city. We went to La Ventana, the show was long (3 hours continuous)  and somewhat repetitive.